The lay of the land
The first days of our visit—the green, blue and stone call to us. From the stairs to our accommodations a path branches off to Mayon cliff, a National Trust preserve which includes a granite lookout built by the British Coast Guard in the late 1800s. Along the hiking path what is not bare stone is covered in moss or tightly packed ground cover, which feels wonderful on my bare feet. In every direction there are picture-worthy vistas, although I always feel a bit vulnerable not giving full attention the sheer drop at every turn.
Quick walk to the beach
Next day we decide to go to the beach. Someone we meet at breakfast in the harbour said that Gynver Beach was less crowded on the weekend. And for good reason, we find out. Access is either down a steep path from above or from Sennen Beach.
The hike from Sennen Beach to Gwynver Beach is along the cliff, through narrow paths cleared from the carpet of ferns and other wild undergrowth. Wherever the stone rises up, a bit is etched out for us to pass through. The views are spectacular—out to sea and up to the granite crags of Pedn-Men-Du.
After a swim, some sunning—and the walk back—we stop for late lunch and build energy for another climb to the apartment—and bringing coffee for icing when we make it there.
A bit further
From our trip to Mayon Cliff I am intrigued that Land’s End, the closest spot on the English Coast to America, was only a mile away along the cliffs. So I set off the next afternoon. Once I get to the top of Mayon Cliff it is mostly flat with some dips and climbs.
At Land’s End there is a cafe-shop, The First and Last House. The signs along the edge of the viewing space don’t give mileage or corny references to the lands to the west. Instead they tell about conservation, lichens and coastal habitats—this is England after all—half the programming on TV are quiz shows.
Now I’m ready to sit in the car and go to a restaurant and get off my feet.